Chablis 2022 by Allen Meadows
2022 Chablis “Mont de Milieu” | 91 (2029+)
(from 4 different parcels of 35+ year old vines). Here the wood is subtle though easily perceptible on the mildly exotic aromas of white and yellow peach, orange peel and moderate Chablis elements. On the palate the larger-bodied and more concentrated flavors are also generously proportioned while concluding in a balanced, dry and powerful finish. This could use more depth so a few years of keeping should again prove beneficial.
2022 Chablis “Montée de Tonnerre” | 91 (2030+)
(from a 2.5 ha parcel of 35+ year old vines – two thirds of the blend is from Chapelot, and the remainder is from Pied d’Aloup and Montée de Tonnerre proper; the Pied d’Aloup vines were planted in 1935). Moderate though also easily detectable wood is present on the nose of iodine, white flowers and a hint of oyster shell. The markedly finer middleweight flavors exude evident minerality that adds a sense of lift to the balanced, nicely dry and impressively long finish that displays the natural class of a fine MdT. As with many of these 2022s, it could use more depth but the style is lovely and understated.
2022 Chablis Les Clos | 91 (2030+)
(from a .37 ha parcel of vines planted in 1966). Generous though not overwhelming wood influence also fights somewhat with the spicy aromas of acacia blossom, wet stone and oyster shell wisps. There is excellent size, weight and mid-palate concentration to the broad-shouldered flavors that brim with minerality that is particularly apparent on the compact, youthfully austere and built-to-age finish. With all of those attributes duly noted and appreciated, I was frankly surprised by how simple this was and while Les Clos virtually always ages well, my rating offers a considerable benefit of the doubt. Curious.
2022 Chablis Vaudésir | 92 (2030+)
(from 3 parcels totaling .49 ha that come from both sides of the appellation). Very generous wood frames overtly exotic-suffused nose of mineral reduction, white peach, apricot, pretty floral and ample spice wisps. There is excellent punch to the refined middleweight flavors that exude a subtle minerality on the lingering, firm and built-to-age finale. This too needs to develop more depth so more cellaring is in order plus it should help to better integrate the wood as this is pretty oaky today.
2022 Chablis Les Preuses | 94 (2032+)
(from a .41 ha parcel of vines planted in 1952). More moderate wood influence stops short of overshadowing the attractively spicy, pure and floral nose of shellfish, sea breeze and quinine. The medium-bodied flavors are rich to the point of opulence thanks to the abundance of sappy dry extract that also serves to buffer the firm acid spine shaping the wonderfully complex, persistent and balanced finale. Excellent and the best wine in the range, hands down.
