Chablis 2015 by Allen Meadows
Petit Chablis 2015 : A ripe, fresh and pretty nose features mainly notes of apple and citrus along with nicely rich and round flavors that terminate in a lemon-inflected, clean and refreshing finale. This straightforward effort should be appealing young. (87/100)
Chablis 2015 : (from 11 parcels scattered around Chablis, the most notable of which are from Les Pargues). Here there is better Chablis character and even a hint of mineral reduction to the green apple, citrus and tidal pool-scented nose. There is impressive richness to the solidly intense medium-bodied flavors that offer good salinity on the equally clean and dry finale. This isn’t an elegant wine but it’s delicious and one that should also be accessible young. (88/100)
Chablis “Tête d’Or” 2015 : (from 2 parcels situated in the villages portion of Chapelot). A discreet but not invisible touch of wood frames the slightly riper aromas of white orchard fruit, lemon and sea breeze. There is a bit more volume and richness to the generously proportioned yet intense flavors that possess better depth and length. I wouldn’t describe this as entirely classic but there is enough typicity to be at least persuasive. (88-90/100)
Les Vaillons 1er Cru 2015 : (from Séchet, Roncières, Châtains, Mélinots and Vaillons proper). This is very different from the Fourchaume with its spicy and intensely floral nose that is more elegant if not quite as complex. There is slightly less volume but more precision to the round and supple middle weight flavors that tighten up on the delicious and lingering finish. Like most of these 2015s, this too should drink well on the younger side. (89-91/100)
Mont de Milieu 1er Cru 2015 : (from 4 different parcels of 35+ year old vines). This is very Mont de Milieu with its mildly exotic and vaguely Viognier-like aromas that introduce big, rich and impressively scaled flavors that exhibit fine mid-palate concentration before culminating in a softly mineral-inflected and saline finish that delivers both very solid depth and length. (89-92/100)
Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru 2015 : (from a 2.5 ha parcel of 35+ year old vines – two thirds of the blend is from Chapelot and the remainder is from Pied d’Aloup and Montée de Tonnerre proper; the Pied d’Aloup vines were planted in 1935). This is at once more classic and more elegant with its ripe yet airy combination of pear, apple, mineral reduction and floral nuances. There is a lovely sense of underlying tension to the refined medium weight flavors that exude a fine bead of minerality onto the lingering, balanced and delicious finish where a hint of bitter lemon surfaces. (90-92/100)
Fourchaume 1er Cru 2015 : (from a .25 ha parcel in Vaupoulent). This is also notably ripe but not really exotic with its array of pear, citrus, mineral reduction and wisps of sea shell and ocean scents. The slightly bigger and richer flavors possess a caressing mouth feel before delivering a vibrant and citrusy finale that offers good if not truly special depth. (89-91)
Vaudésir Grand Cru 2015 : (from a .71 ha parcel). Soft wood sets off distinctly ripe yellow and white orchard fruit that display background nuances of lychee, seaweed and mineral reduction. There is exceptional richness to the dense and seductively textured, indeed even opulent flavors that possess excellent volume along with an attractive minerality that really comes up on the well-detailed finish. This is less refined than the Preuses but just as complex. (90-93/100)
Les Preuses Grand Cru 2015 : (from a .41 ha parcel of vines planted in 1952). This is noticeably more reserved with its pure nose of green fruit, mineral reduction and sea shore scents. The palate impression of the slightly more voluminous flavors manages to combine richness with refinement that continues onto the mouth coating, sappy and well-balanced finish. This notably pretty effort should benefit from a few years of cellar time to develop more depth. (91-93/100)
Les Clos Grand Cru 2015 : (from a .44 ha parcel of vines planted in 1966). An attractively fresh nose features notes of mineral reduction, green fruit, tidal pool and iodine nuances. There is both good vibrancy and intensity to the admirably well concentrated flavors that possess focused power and detail on the beautifully long finish. This is finer than it usually is as it’s sleekly muscular rather than robust and one that should also repay up to a decade of cellaring. (91-94/100)
Les Blanchots Grand Cru 2015 : (from a small .18 ha parcel of vines planted in 1971 that directly about Les Clos; note that one of the few changes that Faiveley has made to the wine making style involves radically reducing the oak program for this wine which prior to the sale was notably generous). Notes of freshly sliced citrus and mineral reduction combine with those of white flower and discreet spice nuances. There is a restrained energy to the caressing, intense and lilting middle weight flavors that possess good richness but also a lovely sense of refinement on the bitter lemon-infused finale. (91-93/100)
